MILAN FASHION WEEK / BEST COLLECTIONS SPRING/SUMMER 2020

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SPRING/SUMMER 2020 season has arrived and now it is time to review the most prominent collections from men’s MILAN FASHION WEEK. Here are the best brands who made it to the top and again, influencing the core of next summer’s tendencies in the world of men’s fashion and style.

DSQUARED2 SS 20 COLLECTION

Dsquared2’s creative duo Dean and Dan Caten brought a bit of Hong Kong to the Milan Catwalk. Set on a flaming red runway, Bruce Lee iconography and 1970s Kung-Fu film motifs were showcased through graphic t-shirts with prints of the star’s film posters, red and orange floral patterns, and tiger-striped two-piece sets. Lee’s signature style shows its influences with looks that combine style and sport. From silky black boxer shorts paired with loosely tailored chiffon shirts to white mesh vests and boxers peaking out from trousers, the actor’s inspiration can be seen even in the smallest of details.

FENDI SS 20 COLLECTION

Fashion and film came together as the designer Silvia Venturi Fendi and the director Luca Guadagnino collaborated on this spell-binding collection. Prints were from sketches Guadagnino made on the set of his recent film Suspira, while the soundtrack (featuring music from the Japanese composer Ryuichi Sakamoto) and the garden setting perfectly conjured his box-office hits I Am Love and Call Me By Your Name. The clothes themselves carried along the luxe horticultural theme – gardening gloves, watering cans, picnic baskets and knitwear resembling trellises all played with the theme.

ETRO SS 20 COLLECTION

Etro teamed with Star Wars to collaborate on a capsule collection designed to highlight the common themes of “family, love, courage and generosity”, read the show notes. It most successfully played out with instantly recognisable prints on hoodies, shirts and bomber jackets taken from George Lucas’s original films of the 70s and 80s. Meanwhile Yoda, designer Kean Etro’s favourite character, provided a throwback to the second instalment The Empire Strikes Back. Elsewhere, the theme of voyage and discovery dominated, with the brand’s signature paisley motif mingling on myriad textures.

MARCELO BURLON COUNTY OF MILAN SS 20 COLLECTION

Marcelo’s ‘Techno Folk’ silhocts portrait a 90’s acid culture and rave generation that makes a big come back in every single piece and details of the collection. A windbreaker-style top with kangaroo pocket and matching jogging pant in a hi-tech shiny material glinting with hologram reflections had more of a futuristic edge, while the main techno-sports palette mixed black and blue with flashes of yellow and coral.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SS 20 COLLECTION

The brand brought the audience to a faraway deserted wasteland known as Area Falck for SS 20. Forming a runway from composite – presumably gathered nearby – and pumping smoke to creating dystopian vibes, creative director tk created a collection that was also centred on future construction. From technical fabrics – which the house has committed to making – and the urban hues, to the “Achill” suit, entirely made from discarded wool remnants from Ermenegildo Zegna’s farm.

NEIL BARRETT SS 20 COLLECTION

Continuing the theme of collaboration, Neil Barrett worked with the young South African artist Jody Paulsen to create pieces that were then used on the collection and adorned the showspace. The house described him as someone who “finds joy in the imperfect and imprecise”, which it in turn translated to the bright and zesty knitwear that was a standout here. Mixed with Barratt’s flair for tailoring and sportswear, each look popped with colour. The finale featured boombox bags with in-built speakers – another collaboration with Wizpak, the world’s first wearable luxury sound system.

SUNNEI SS 20 COLLECTION

Sunnei staged its co-ed collection in a park, although its was an experiment in urban regeneration (its makeover will remain as an open-air gallery for all to use). It was an ambitious concept from the Italian design duo Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo who have sizeably smaller budgets and less reach. It formed the backdrop to a sensational collection of deliciously layered fabrics that were finessed and beautifully made but also felt relaxed and creative. A standout T-shirt that read “I hate fashion” comes from the Wigstock festival in 1995.

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